Juniper Berries
The berry that makes gin taste like gin, juniper is sharp, piney, and faintly citrusy, and it belongs in your kitchen long before it ends up in a cocktail.
What It Is
Juniper berries are not true berries but small seed cones from a coniferous shrub found across the Northern Hemisphere. The ripe ones are deep blue-purple and carry a resinous, almost woodsy bite that softens when cooked. They have been used in European kitchens for centuries, especially in cold-weather countries where bold flavors were needed to stand up to game, pork, and long braises.
They are one of the few spices that come from a conifer, which explains that piney note that no other spice quite copies. A little goes a long way. Too many and the dish tips toward medicinal.
What To Do
Crush a few berries with the flat of a knife before using them, which opens them up and lets the flavor move into the dish. Four to six berries is enough for a pot of braised pork, lamb, venison, or sauerkraut. They work well with bay, black pepper, and thyme. Toss them into a brine for pork chops or use them to season a simple pan sauce.
Store in an airtight container away from light and heat. Whole berries keep their flavor far longer than ground. If they smell flat or dusty rather than sharp and piney, it is time for a fresh batch.
