Mugwort
Mugwort is a bitter, aromatic herb with a history in folk medicine and traditional cooking that stretches from Europe to East Asia. It smells a little like sage, a little like something older.
What It Is
The dried leaves and stems carry a sharp, resinous bitterness with a faint sweetness underneath. In East Asian cooking it shows up in rice cakes and soups. In European folk tradition it was used to flavor fatty meats and as a bitter in drinks, long before commercial bitters existed. It is closely related to tarragon and wormwood, which explains both the aroma and the edge.
Traditionally, it was also steeped as a tea before bed. Whether you find it pleasant or medicinal-tasting depends entirely on how much you use.
What To Do
Use it sparingly. A small pinch of the dried herb goes into Japanese mochi and Korean tteok, giving those rice cakes their faint green color and earthy flavor. For tea, steep about half a teaspoon in hot water for five to seven minutes, then strain. The longer it steeps, the more bitter it gets.
It pairs well with pork, duck, and other rich meats as a rub or in a braise. Store it in a sealed container away from light, and it will hold its aroma for about a year.
